Known as the Pearl of the Mediterranean, and a magnet for A-listers and tourists during the summer, it’s possible to enjoy the charms of this pretty island without blowing the budget…
Capri is dinky – just four miles square – yet during the height of the summer season up to 60,000 people make a day trip from the Italian mainland. You can reach Capri by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples. Alilauro, Caremar and SNAV all run ferries to the island, departing from Calata Porta di Massa; the journey takes about an hour and 20 minutes and the cost is roughly €10.
Most tourists leave on the evening ferries, giving those staying on a real taste of the island. For many, the point of holidaying in Capri is to strut around Capri’s town centre, the Piazzetta, and party til dawn at Anema & Core. For others, in the know, Capri is all about its hidden coves, mountain hikes and basking in the idyllic sea views.
As for hotels, we all know which ones we’d book if planning a honeymoon (JK Place Capri), a results-oriented spa break (the Beauty Farm medi-spa at Jumeirah Capri Place) or a trip of a lifetime (Hotel La Palma). However, it is possible to have a fabulous stay on the island without blowing the budget.
Here are my recommendations and tips for where to dine and what to visit, when you get there:
Hotel Luna
“Tell me if there is another spectacle on earth which can compare with this,” wrote Alexandre Dumas as he gazed at the Faraglioni rocks in 1816. No, there isn’t, especially if you happen to be sitting on the rooftop terrace of Hotel Luna, enjoying some bollicine (sparkling wines) watching the setting sun paint the legendary sea stacks a shade of red. It’s hard to believe this 50-room, four-star gem is just minutes away from the celebrity-packed Piazzetta. Its small spa and bougainvillea-filled patios add to the sense of tranquility. Rooms from €225; www.lunahotel.com.
Albergo Orsa Maggiore
All twelve rooms at this four-star boutique hotel in Anacapri have their own private terrace overlooking the sea and the neighbouring island of Ischia. Other bonuses included a gorgeous infinity pool, Mediterranean gardens and a rooftop terrace with views of Mount Vesuvius. There’s also a mini gym and spa, poolside restaurant and snack bar. It’s within walking distance to the Damecuta archeological site and the famous Grotta Azzura. Double rooms are from €280; www.orsamaggiore-capri.com.
La Minerva
The 19-room La Minerva is a family-run boutique hotel in the centre of Capri, on a quiet side street away from the tourist bustle where its pool, garden and rooftop terrace offer sea views. It’s built in the typical island style with sweeping arches, cross-vaulted ceilings and majolica tiled floors. Decor is predominantly white punctuated with black and white photographs of celebrities who visited the island in the Sixties including Brigitte Bardot, Gina Lollobrigida and Brigitte Bardot. Rooms from €140; www.laminervacapri.com.
Hotel Gatto Bianco
If you want to step out of your hotel and onto Via Camerelle – Capri’s designer shopping street – or into Anema & Core nightclub, then you’ll love staying in Gatto Bianco. For decades it was the home away from home for Jackie O (her room is now a two-bedroom family suite) and a legendary cast of characters, designers and musicians such as Ingrid Bergman, Roberto Rossellini and Audrey Hepburn. Cat lovers will love its origin story – when the Esposito family decided to enlarge their family’s guest house, and were walking through the gardens, they came across a white cat (or gatto bianco in Italian) and her brood of kittens. There’s been a white cat in residence ever since which intrigues day visitors who also love to order a late afternoon spritz in the hotel lobby. Double rooms are from €80 in low season; www.gattobianco-capri.com.
Hotel Canasta
This secluded and stylish hotel is surrounded by its own private gardens. Take a stroll down to the romantic beach of Faraglioni close by, or if you are feeling more energetic take a hike to Villa Jovis for some spectacular views, or simply relax at the hotel pool. The hotel, and its 16 rooms, is decorated in a nautical theme with accents of mood-boosting yellow. Do ask for a private port-to-hotel transfer if you have heavy luggage. There’s a hotel bar and restaurant, which specialises in fresh seafood. From €150 per night; www.canastahotelcapri.com.
WHERE TO VISIT
For gardeners: I recommend Villa San Michele – the life’s work of the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe (1857–1949) – recently the recipient of a prize which named it as Italy’s most beautiful private park. Behind it is the Barbarossa mountain, which Axel Munthe turned into a sanctuary for migratory birds. As background reading or to have in your beach tote, read Axel Munthe’s autobiography about the creation of the villa in The Story of San Michele (1929). www.villasanmichele.eu. Also worth a visit, even if to shade from the midday sun, are the panoramic Augustus Gardens just a ten minute walk from Capri’s centre. Dedicated to the first Roman Emperor (Augustus), the gardens were built by Alfred Krupp (a Dutch manufacturer) in 1900 and later donated to Capri’s municipality. www.capri.com
For lighthouse fans and sunset chasers: The Punta Carena lighthouse has been operating since 1867 and is Italy’s second oldest lighthouse. It’s also one of the best places to watch the sun set, especially from Lido Del Faro bar. www.lidofaro.com
For sea swimming: In Anacapri, the Gradola Cliff is a glorious (free) swimming spot, the equivalent of Dublin’s Forty Foot. You’ll find yourself surrounded by locals. You won’t need more than a towel and some sunscreen to enjoy a sunbathing day. If you’d rather be comfortable, opt for one of the two resorts and lounge bars next door (Giovanni and Il Riccio). Combine a beach day at Gradola with a visit to the Blue Grotto, just two minutes away.
For perfume devotees: Carthusia boutique makes artisanal perfumes, eau de toilette, soaps, and candles (which are also found at Liberty, London). You’ll find more than one shop on the island. The products are one-of-a-kind, some of the perfume recipes date back to 1380; most fragrances are made from local flowers growing spontaneously on the island. Jackie O was a fan of Fiori di Capri. www.carthusia.it
For homewares: Even if you don’t pick up any items, 100% Capri is worth a look for its minimal aesthetic and products in white, khaki and chocolate colours. There are two other branches in Rome and St Barths. www.100capri.com.
For dinner: What you’ve saved on accommodation, a fancy dinner can be enjoyed at any number of stylish restaurants. An ideal spot for an apertivo? It has to be Nettuno. Refined yet relaxed, JKitchen is JK Place Capri’s stylish seafood restaurant with a spectacular terrace. Da Gemma is a historic restaurant that was once Graham Greene’s favourite serving Caprese favourites and seafood.
Attended by both celebrities and locals, La Capannina is a few steps away from the Piazzetta. Operating since 1931, this family-run eatery run by Antonio and his son Francesco is famous for its fiori di zucca ripieni, ravioli and scialatielli ai frutti di mare (seafood pasta). For dinner between lemon trees and typical Caprese fare, try Da Paolino (pictured above). Another legendary address (and terrace) is Aurora which offers Neapolitan favourites and great pizzas.